You love that faded jean jacket you’ve had for a decade, but wonder if it needs a little pizzazz to give it new life. An iron-on patch is an easy and affordable solution to add your personal aesthetic to any garment or to cover small holes and tears. In this article, we’ll show you step by step how to prepare your garment and iron on a patch that will last so you can show off your design for years to come. Let’s start while the iron is hot!

[Edit]Things you have to know

• Lay out the garment on an ironing board, then place the patch in the exact spot where you want it to stick.
• Cover the patch with a thin cloth, then iron on the highest heat the fabric can handle for 30 to 60 seconds (check the iron icon on the label for maximum heat information).
• Turn the garment inside out and iron the back of the patch for another 30 seconds. Once the patch cools, it’s ready to use!

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Check if your clothing or accessory can be ironed.

1. Look for the iron symbol on the label or label of the garment. The symbol looks like a small icon of an iron. If there is an “X”, it means that the garment cannot be ironed safely. A dot, 2 dots or 3 dots within the icon means that the garment can be ironed at a low, medium or high temperature, respectively.^[1]
   
   • If the garment cannot be ironed or does not have a label, sew the patch on so as not to risk melting or damaging the material.
   • The best fabrics for iron-on patches are heavy-duty fabrics like denim, canvas, cotton, polyester, or cotton blends.^[2]
   • Vinyl, rayon, nylon, leather, silk or other animal products or sensitive fabrics are not good for ironing as the heat can damage them.

[Edit]Choose where to place the patch ahead of time.

1. Lay the garment out on a flat surface and mark the exact location of the patch. For precise placement, such as placing a patch in the middle of a pocket, use a tape measure to ensure the patch is exactly centered. Next, use a fabric marker and add a small dot on the fabric where the center of the patch will go.^[3]
   
   • If you are ironing a patch to cover a hole, cut out and position the patch so that the edges at least cover the fabric around the hole.^[4]
   • If you are ironing on multiple patches or plan to add more later, keep the end result in mind and allow room for future patches.
   • Some popular places for patches include the elbows of sweaters or jackets, baseball or bucket hats, the pockets of jeans or T-shirts, or the back of jean jackets.

[Edit]Heat the iron.

1. Set the iron to the hottest temperature the fabric can handle. Turn the temperature up all the way for heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, and choose a medium or medium-high temperature for cotton or polyester. Make sure the steam function is turned off and there is no water on the iron (any moisture will make the adhesive less effective).^[5]
   
   • If you are ironing polyester, start on medium heat and increase the temperature if necessary. High temperatures can accidentally burn or discolor polyester.
   • Choose medium heat if your patch is chenille, as the yarn is sensitive to high heat and can burn.
   • Clothing irons are the easiest to use, but any iron (even a hair straightener) will work as long as it’s hot enough to melt the adhesive on the patch.

[Edit]Lay out the garment on an ironing board.

1. Position the garment so that the fabric lies smooth and flat against the surface. Use any flat, clean, heat-resistant surface if you don’t have an ironing board. Try a folded bath towel on a sturdy table as a substitute.^[6]
   
   • Run a lint roller over the garment to ensure that it is free of lint. If necessary, iron the area where the patch will go so that it lays flat (no steam).
   • If you are repairing a hole, also cut any loose threads or frayed edges with scissors.

[Edit]Place the patch on the garment.

1. Peel back of patch and place where desired.^[7] If you marked the fabric earlier, center the patch on the fabric marker spot. Make sure the sticky side of the patch is flat and the edges are not crooked or angled (unless you want them that way).^[8]
   • On embroidered patches, the sticky side is the bottom. If your patch has no adhesive, place a fusible tape between the patch and the fabric.
   • If you are ironing on transfer paper, peel off the image side and place face down (the paper backing on the other side is removed later).
   • If the patch needs to blend into the fabric, slide it under or into the garment so that the patterned side shows through the hole. See the patch instructions for more details.

[Edit]Place parchment paper or a thin cloth over the patch.

1. Position the fabric carefully so as not to accidentally move the patch. The extra layer protects your fabric and the patch from the heat of the iron. It also protects the iron from any stubborn adhesive that might seep under the patch.^[9]

[Edit]Iron on the patch for 30-60 seconds.

1. Use firm pressure and keep the iron moving the entire time.^[10] Iron continuously until the adhesive backing is completely melted and adheres to the fabric (this takes at least 30 seconds for small to medium patches and up to 1 minute for large patches). Be sure to iron over each corner and edge of the patch for the best result.^[11]
   • Wait for the iron to fully heat up before ironing on the patch. The adhesive needs a high temperature to melt and a cool iron will not be as effective.^[12]

[Edit]Iron the back of the patch for 30 seconds.

1. Turn the garment inside out so that you can easily iron the back of the patch. Go over the back of the patch with firm pressure for about 30 seconds to make sure the adhesive has completely melted and adhered to the fabric. No need for a cloth or parchment paper, just iron the fabric directly.^[13]
   • Carefully turn the garment inside out in case the patch has not yet fully adhered to the front.

[Edit]Let the patch cool down and check if it is stuck.

1. Turn the garment right side up and test the edges of the patch. Try lifting the edges or corners of the patch with your finger. If they move a bit, reposition the cloth or parchment paper over the patch and iron for another 10 seconds. Repeat until the patch is secure.^[14]
   • If you are working with a paper transfer patch, wait 10 minutes for it to cool completely, then remove the paper backing on top.
   • Once the patch is cool and secure, your garment is ready to wear!

[Edit]Sew the edges of the patch if necessary.

1. Reinforce the corners and edges of the patch if they won’t stay stuck. Choose a thread that matches the patch, then use a sewing machine or needle and thread to sew around the perimeter. Sewing a straight stitch or a simple running stitch will do! The added support keeps the patch securely attached to your clothing and ensures it doesn’t fall off later.^[15]
   • Transfer paper patches cannot be reinforced with stitching.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

• If you can’t find a patch you like, try designing your own applique.
• Trim around the image on patches of printed transfer paper, but leave at least space around the image for the transfer to adhere.
• Please follow the iron-on patch instructions carefully, as the application process may vary depending on the brand and type of patch.^[16]

[Edit]Warnings

• Wash the garment or accessory as little as possible to preserve the patch. Hand wash and air dry if possible. Otherwise, turn garment inside out and machine wash in cold water, then air dry.^[17]

[Edit]Related WikiHows

• sew a patch on a uniform

[Edit]References

[Edit]quick summary